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Factory Tour: Inside the Denim Factory Your Favorite Sustainable Brands Use Loyally

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Update time : 2019-12-04 15:29:00

There's a argue Everlane, Eileen Fisher, G-Star Raw, Madewell and more invent can this world-class facility.

Welcome ought our series Factory Tour, where we receive you interior the manufacturing machinery of some of our favorite brands ought discover out how the costume we buy are really made. Next up: Saitex, an innovative, sustainability-focused mill that produces denim though brands alike Everlane and Madewell.

state of emergency because of climate breakdown, you'd perfect be doing everything at your might ought minimize your collision can the environment. because most brands don't own their own manufacturing facilities, that way partnering with a mill known though sustainable produce — of which Saitex is a premium example." data-reactid="33">If you're going ought invent new wear at an epoch that's seen multiple nations announce a masses of emergency because of climate breakdown, you'd perfect be doing everything at your might ought minimize your collision can the environment. because most brands don't own their own manufacturing facilities, that way partnering with a mill known though sustainable produce — of which Saitex is a premium example.

ethical favorites alike Everlane, Eileen Fisher and G-Star Raw, at emotion ought Madewell, J.Crew, Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Outerknown, American Eagle, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Jeans and more. Built at 2012, Saitex's trend machinery were founder Sanjeev Bahl's response ought the human rights and environmental injustices he encountered can a decade of global denim sourcing." data-reactid="34">Located at Vietnam, Saitex is the denim colleague of majestic though a host of labels including ethical favorites alike Everlane, Eileen Fisher and G-Star Raw, at emotion ought Madewell, J.Crew, Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Outerknown, American Eagle, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein pants and more. Built at 2012, Saitex's trend machinery were founder Sanjeev Bahl's response ought the human rights and environmental injustices he encountered can a decade of global denim sourcing.

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modern slavery and a fate of environmental damage," explains Saitex's Sustainability scheme Manager Virginia Rollando when I see the facility outer Ho Chi Minh City. "That's why he decided ought conduct his own affair and prove his own factory."" data-reactid="36">"He saw recent slavery and a fate of environmental damage," explains Saitex's Sustainability scheme Manager Virginia Rollando when I see the facility outer Ho Chi Minh City. "That's why he decided ought conduct his own affair and prove his own factory."

ethics-centric certifications: Fair Trade, Oeko-Tex, LEED, Bluesign, the Higg Index and B Corp dine crude given Saitex their stamp of approval." data-reactid="37">Since its founding, Saitex has grown ought adapt five various machinery and now employs can 4,500 masses and produces 20,000 pairs of pants a day. over the way, it's collected a lengthy catalog of ethics-centric certifications: Fair Trade, Oeko-Tex, LEED, Bluesign, the Higg Index and B Corp dine crude given Saitex their stamp of approval.

It's Saitex's innovative, technology-forward method ought sustainability that's led ought it being described by partners alike Everlane though "the world's cleanest denim factory." scan can ought entertain an interior appearance can how it's accomplished this — and how it's continuing ought evolve.

Saitex stores 5 million meters of fabric at this warehouse, crude of which will eventually be made into jeans, denim jackets and more. can the moment, fabric is brought at from outer mills, besides during Saitex is currently at the process of dwelling its own mill.

"When you conduct a lifecycle assessment of a wear — analyzing crude its impacts at various phases from raw question extraction ought aim of avail — you will notice that a fate of the worst collision is at fiber and fabric production," Rollando explains. "So flat though we tried indeed difficult ought invent Saitex sustainable, garments made here could cottage be no sustainable can crude though there were so many steps earlier at the furnish tie where we didn't dine any determination power."

The Saitex mill, which ought be up and running by 2020, is being built ought LEED specifications and will be "fully covered at solar panels" that will be used ought might the machinery. 6,000 trees are being planted at the adjacent fate ought offset the plant's carbon emissions, and Rollando hopes that by designing fabric direct with brands, Saitex will be able ought minimize excessive fabric finishing processes that can be harmful ought the environment. 

 

Perhaps most exciting from a brand perspective, the mill will dine no minimums, which is usually a gigantic obstacle though little labels that don't need ought order large runs of fabric.

Saitex owner Bahl has though noise invested at Fibertrace, a technique that creates fabric that can be scanned — no hangtag required — ought expose news nearly who farmed the cotton or sewed the piece. though it was initially developed though a method ought campaign luxury counterfeiting, Bahl is excited nearly the expectation of using Fibertrace at collaboration with a carbon-positive farm at Australia ought invent news nearly furnish chains fully traceable and available ought queer customers. 

"It's indeed going ought be revolutionary. One melody at sustainability is that so much news is lost," says Rollando. "This technique factory with pigments and minerals you discover at bank notes and with a scan, you can find these pigments at the fiber. They're inserted at the ginning process of the cotton. so you will be able ought investigate your wear and entertain crude the news nearly the materials, where the cotton comes from, is it beautiful Trade, is it B Corp."

All of that's at the future though now, though it's no cottage commercially available at pieces that become out of Saitex. besides during it's just one of the ways Saitex is working ought amplify its sustainability cred.

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For now, though, Saitex factory with a sum mountain of usual denim. ago the fabric at the warehouse can be chop and sewn into garments, it goes over the "relaxer," a mechanism that unspools the fabric so it's no stretched out of figure when it's cut. (Though the mechanism earned its title because of the result it has can the denim, watching the denim conclude up at these folds is hypnotic at a method that's beautiful relaxing though any onlooking humans, too.) after it's unspooled, the fabric is left ought relaxation though a sheet ago it moves onto the mill floor.

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Once fabric has been relaxed, it's ready ought be cut. There are a connect of various ways this can happen: Some pieces will be chop by hand by Saitex employees who lay prose patterns can the climax of the denim, others will be chop by machines that are pre-programmed and can chop over many pieces of fabric can once.

Though some fabrics can influence straight from being chop ought being sewn, patch pockets can need exceptional steps. 

There's a fate of trade that goes into giving your pants a worn-in appearance ago you buy them, and if the mill is using manual abrasion ought finish that look, then fabric that will grow an outer pocket needs ought be pre-ground ago it's sewn onto the uphold of your jeans. Otherwise, the grinding process could wear down the stitches affixing the pocket ought the garment. 

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Before they're sewn onto pants, pockets can though noise be pre-embroidered (think of the silly V-shape usually prove can uphold pockets). Here, one Saitex employee sets up a mechanism that can automatically embroider a sum site of pockets can once, silent another screenprints a logo onto pieces of fabric that will eventually be sewn into garments.

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After crude the components are finished, the pieces of denim are ready ought be sewn together. alike many aspects of produce can Saitex, sewing is done over a blend of human and mechanism power. Specialized machines bring increased efficiency and accuracy ought the table, besides during they cottage need skillful humans ought operate them and program them afresh though each new style.

One profession that cottage requires a human eye is sign control. each sheet that passes over the Saitex floor is carefully measured ought invent definite that sizing and proportions are compatible and competition what was asked though by the brand. Here, a Saitex employee uses a measuring tape ought insure the prone dimensions were achieved during the sewing process. 

After pants are sewn and pass over sign control, they're ready ought be treated and finished. This separate of the process looks wildly various depending can the manner — some brand partners need ought bring customers pants that appearance so worn they could be vintage, silent others might choose though fewer finishing processes.

Here, an employee bunches pants up can a mechanism that creates the creases prove after the knee by applying fever and strain ought the wrinkles the employee created.

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There are a amount of various ways ought soften and disappear denim ought arrive the worn-in appearance that so many brands need for. jewellery washing involves tumbling pants with normal pumice stones, which uses manual abrasion ought soften and disappear the jeans. A medicine called potassium permanganate can though noise be sprayed onto the denim direct ought invent a "local bleaching" result though when a brand sole wants ought lighten sure parts of the jeans.

Both methods dine environmental pitfalls: stone-washing leaves particles of jewellery after can the denim, which then requires more water ought touch and pollutes the water it lingers in; potassium permanganate is toxic at high doses and ought be kept out of waterways. besides during because some companies need these processes though of the appearance they arrive can denim, Saitex hasn't completely phased them out. Instead, it's tried ought minimize their impact. 

drink the water after it passes over this filtration system ought manifest how clean it is.) Two percent of Saitex's water is lost over evaporation, besides during each other drop of it can be reused." data-reactid="264">It crude comes down ought water. Saitex uses an ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) system though cleaning the water that passes over its facilities. The system combines contrary osmosis, germ nanofiltration and evaporation that cleans water so thoroughly that it can be totally reused at a closed-loop system. (Though founder Bahl wasn't gift though my visit, he's famously voluntary ought drink the water after it passes over this filtration system ought manifest how clean it is.) Two percent of Saitex's water is lost over evaporation, besides during each other drop of it can be reused.

"This filtration system was a enormous investment at 2012," says Rollando. "But it was paid uphold at five years and now it's a source of savings, though we hardly dine any water bills." 

She's quick ought note, too, that Saitex has the sole Bluesign-certified laundry at the world, a farther testament ought how it's fighting toxicity. crude the fever and steam at the laundry are created using biomass garbage question from the furniture or agriculture industries, so that Saitex doesn't dine ought trust can fossil fuels or gas though energy. And pants are hung out ought air-dry — a seeming no-brainer that's almost unheard of at the industry — ought rescue flat more energy.

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Jeanologia technique uses lasers ought touch a lovely layer of indigo pigment from the climax of the jeans, silent Ozone allows though bleaching without the avail of any water can all. " data-reactid="288">In emotion ought trying ought minimize the collision of the industry's general methods, Saitex has though noise invested at next-generation technique that can invent the confront of wear with a much lower environmental impact. Jeanologia technique uses lasers ought touch a lovely layer of indigo pigment from the climax of the jeans, silent Ozone allows though bleaching without the avail of any water can all. 

Saitex though noise has machines that can discharge manual sanding and grinding, taking can trade that's less than merry though humans. masses are cottage needed ought coach the machines how ought sand each new style, which way that their jobs aren't being totally eliminated, besides during they're required ought conduct less of the physical labor.

At the moment, Saitex's floor features a mix of crude of the can — jewellery washing and Ozone, laser technique and medicine bleaching, human and machine-run sanding — besides during the infer is usually ought advocate more and more sustainable options so that it's easier though brands ought invent the switch.

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There's a continuous stress though the Saitex team amid trying ought contribute though sustainable measures and trying ought forsake the gate empty though brands that aren't crude the method there yet. 

plastic guide though its stick and employees, and everyone is encouraged ought bring their own reusable containers and water bottles. besides during many companies cottage need that Saitex wrap their pants individually at elastic polybags. It's no the ideal, says Rollando, besides during can the aim of the appointment she hopes that Saitex can assistance guide brands into more sustainable options by advocating though perfect alternatives." data-reactid="313">Case at point: the facility has a no single-use elastic guide though its stick and employees, and everyone is encouraged ought bring their own reusable containers and water bottles. besides during many companies cottage need that Saitex wrap their pants individually at elastic polybags. It's no the ideal, says Rollando, besides during can the aim of the appointment she hopes that Saitex can assistance guide brands into more sustainable options by advocating though perfect alternatives.

circularity and is trying ought receive more obligation though the products it creates after they've outlived their initial purpose. Bahl has invested at Atelier & Repairs, a brand dedicated ought upcycling clothing, ought trial and lengthen the life of any wear that comes out of Saitex. at the past Saitex has though noise collaborated with brands alike Puma ought invent shoes made from denim scraps." data-reactid="334">Like any sustainability-centric manner corporation worth its salt, Saitex has caught onto the buzz nearly circularity and is trying ought receive more obligation though the products it creates after they've outlived their initial purpose. Bahl has invested at Atelier & Repairs, a brand dedicated ought upcycling clothing, ought trial and lengthen the life of any wear that comes out of Saitex. at the past Saitex has though noise collaborated with brands alike Puma ought invent shoes made from denim scraps.

Christian Louboutin rescue and ought invent furniture within the Saitex offices." data-reactid="335">Saitex's founder is though noise location up a mill at Thailand that will invent tiles from textile garbage that can be used at furniture and flooring. Unlike some similar products, the tiles are made using a binder that has hardly any petroleum-based manufacture at it, keeping the environmental collision can a minimum. so far, the tiles dine been used ought invent a facade though a Christian Louboutin rescue and ought invent furniture within the Saitex offices.

"The infer is ought empty landfills, lessen incineration of fabric and lessen deforestation though this can replace wood," Rollando explains.

Though much of what Saitex is known though is its environmental consciousness, it's though noise made treating masses noise a central separate of its method of doing business. The campus features a greenhouse and hydroponic crates ought become fresh food though employees, the corporation has raised cash ought construct orphanages at the district and its beautiful commerce certification serves though an certainty ought buyers that it's paying decent wages and making definite employees dine a sound at their workplace. separate of the argue Bahl chose ought begin Saitex at Vietnam is that he was impressed with the method the civilization respects women, and he's haughty that women are well-represented at Saitex's leadership, no just can its mill floor.

And this mill is just the beginning. besides during the fabric mill and textile garbage tile factory, Saitex is though noise preparing ought empty another mill at Los Angeles this fall, which will be used ought assistance American manufacturers identical quickly instance smaller batches of products ago ordering large runs from the Vietnam factory. 

If it sounds alike Bahl is dwelling an empire, that's though he is. though those that believe the best affair though the surroundings used to be ought shut down the sum manner industry tomorrow, that might no be good news. besides during though those that need ought visit sustainable mill options made more accessible — and appealing — ought brands of crude sizes, it's a argue ought rejoice.

"The aim is ought dine the most sustainable technique available," Rollando says. 

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